Iewduh market and a Khasi lunch
Iewduh is the commercial heart of the Khasi Hills and one of the oldest markets in the region. Its lanes are divided by trade: one for dried fish and fermented soybean, one for pork, one for betel leaf and areca nut, one for cane baskets, knives and household goods. Much of the trade is run by women, which reflects the matrilineal structure of Khasi society. The market follows a traditional eight-day Khasi week, so we check the calendar before setting the date.
Your guide, a Shillong local, explains what you are seeing and who buys it, introduces stallholders where they are willing, and helps you try small things on the way: roasted sweet potato, Khasi rice cakes, sour local fruit in season. It is a working market, crowded and steep in places, and best seen with a light bag and comfortable shoes.
Lunch follows at a jadoh stall or small restaurant. Jadoh is red rice cooked with pork and spices; dohneiiong is pork in a black sesame gravy; tungrymbai is fermented soybean with a strong, earthy flavour. Vegetarian guests are looked after with local greens, potato and lentils. We end with tea at one of the old bakeries near Police Bazaar.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
What is Iewduh market in Shillong?
Iewduh, often called Bara Bazaar, is Shillong's traditional market and one of the largest in the North East. It sells food, spices, livestock, cane goods and household items, with many stalls run by Khasi women. It keeps a traditional market cycle, so some days are busier than others, and we check the date before planning a visit.
What Khasi food should I try in Shillong?
Start with jadoh, red rice cooked with pork and spices, and dohneiiong, pork in black sesame gravy. Tungrymbai, fermented soybean, is an acquired taste worth trying. Vegetarians can order local greens, pumpkin and potato dishes. Pukhlein, a sweet fried rice cake, makes a good finish with a cup of tea.
Is Iewduh market safe for visitors?
Yes, but it is crowded, narrow and steep in parts. Keep valuables close, wear flat shoes and ask before photographing people, as some traders prefer not to be pictured. Going with a local guide makes the visit easier and more rewarding, since few stalls have signs.
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