Sunrise over the Laitlum canyons
Laitlum means roughly the end of the hills, and that is what it feels like: you drive across rolling grassland east of Shillong, past the village of Smit, and the land suddenly falls away into a system of steep gorges hundreds of metres deep. On winter mornings cloud often lies in the valleys below while the rim is clear, and the low sun lights the ridges one by one.
We leave Ri Kynjai or your Shillong hotel at about 5 am in December and January to reach the rim before sunrise, with hot tea and breakfast packed by the hotel. After the light, there is time to walk a short way down the long stone stairway that the people of the canyon villages use to reach the plateau with their produce. It is steep, and coming back up is the hard part, so we turn around well before the bottom.
Laitlum is open and exposed, with no fences at the edge. We keep to the established paths and away from the drops, especially with children. The return drive passes Smit, where the Khasi Nongkrem dance is held each autumn, and we can stop at a village house for a second breakfast.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
How far is Laitlum from Shillong?
About 25 km, which takes around one hour by car through Smit and across the upland grassland. From Ri Kynjai at Umiam Lake allow about 1.5 hours. For sunrise in winter, we usually depart around 4:45 to 5 am.
When is the best time to visit Laitlum canyons?
November to February is best, when skies are clear and cloud often settles in the valleys below the rim. During the monsoon, mist can fill the canyons completely and hide the view. Morning is better than afternoon, as cloud builds after midday.
Is Laitlum safe for children?
It is safe with care. The rim is open grassland with no railings and steep drops, so children must stay close and away from the edge. We keep to the main viewing area and established paths, and avoid the stairway descent with younger children.
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