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Tales of Luxury

A monsoon stay in the rain capital

For travellers who want to experience real monsoon, a short stay in Sohra when the plateau receives more than two metres of rain a month. Waterfalls appear on every cliff, cloud pours through the gorges, and the experience is the weather itself.
A monsoon stay in the rain capital
Photo: Kamalapathirao · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Most of our journeys avoid the monsoon, but a small number of guests come to Meghalaya precisely for it. Sohra's average rainfall in June and July is about 2,600 mm each month, more than many cities receive in a year. Rain falls in heavy bursts with breaks between, cloud fills the gorges and lifts suddenly, and hundreds of temporary waterfalls appear down the cliffs south of town.

We plan a monsoon stay as a short, flexible addition to Shillong rather than a fixed itinerary. A good room with a view, an umbrella and a driver who knows the roads are what matter. We visit viewpoints when the cloud parts, take short walks on the plateau, and spend long periods simply watching the weather from under cover, which is the point.

There are limits. The Nongriat steps are slippery and some trails close, landslides can block roads around Sohra and between Shillong and Guwahati, and visibility can be near zero for a day or more. We build in a spare day, keep plans refundable, and do not attempt the root bridge walk in heavy rain.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Is Cherrapunji the wettest place on earth?

It is among the wettest. Sohra, or Cherrapunji, averages about 11,000 mm a year and holds records for rainfall in a single year and month. Nearby Mawsynram, about 15 km to the west, now records slightly higher averages. Both owe their rain to monsoon air forced up the Khasi Hills escarpment.

Is it safe to visit Sohra during the monsoon?

It is possible with care. Roads stay open most days, but landslides and fog cause delays, and steep paths become slippery. We avoid the Nongriat stairway in heavy rain and keep a spare day in the plan. Travel insurance and refundable bookings are sensible for June to August.

What should I pack for Sohra in the monsoon?

A good rain jacket, a sturdy umbrella, quick-drying clothes, shoes with deep grip and a change of footwear. Pack electronics in dry bags and bring a light warm layer, as temperatures sit around 18 to 23 °C with constant damp. Hotels can help dry clothes, but slowly.

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