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Tales of Luxury
Bikanerculture

Junagarh Fort and its painted palaces

A guided morning inside Junagarh, a 16th-century fort on the plain whose palaces hold some of the richest painted, lacquered and gilded interiors in Rajasthan, along with a First World War biplane.
Junagarh Fort and its painted palaces
Photo: user:Flicka · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Junagarh was built between 1589 and 1594 under Raja Rai Singh, a general of the Mughal emperor Akbar, and enlarged by later rulers. Unlike most Rajput forts, it stands on flat ground, protected by a moat and thick walls. It was rarely taken, which helps explain why its palaces survive in such good condition.

Inside, rooms run from the 16th to the 20th centuries. The Anup Mahal, used for coronations, is covered in red and gold lacquer work. The Badal Mahal is painted with blue clouds, a dream of rain in the desert. Phool Mahal and Karan Mahal show mirror work and fine painting. A gallery holds a First World War biplane gifted to Maharaja Ganga Singh.

The fort is run by a royal trust and visits are often guided. We spend around two hours, then walk or drive into the old city for the havelis. Ticket and guiding rules change, so check current status before you travel.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Is Junagarh Fort worth visiting

Yes. Its interiors are among the best preserved in Rajasthan, with lacquer, gold leaf and painted ceilings. It is also less crowded than Amber or Mehrangarh. If you are passing through Bikaner, it is the main reason to stop. We visit in the morning with a guide, then continue into the old city for the red havelis.

How long does Junagarh Fort take

About two hours with a guide. Add time if you want to visit the museum galleries in detail. Mornings are best for light and temperature. Inside, look for the Anup Mahal, covered in red and gold lacquer, the Badal Mahal painted with blue clouds, and the First World War biplane. We then walk or drive into the old city for the havelis.

Why is Junagarh Fort not on a hill

Bikaner sits on flat desert with no suitable hill, so Junagarh was built on the plain and defended by a moat, high walls and gates. It is one of the few major forts in Rajasthan built this way. Built between 1589 and 1594 under Raja Rai Singh, it was rarely taken, which helps explain why its palaces survive in such good condition.

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