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Jaisalmerculture

Dune dinner with Manganiyar musicians

A drive into the Thar for sunset on a quiet dune, followed by dinner by a fire and an evening of songs from the Manganiyar musicians of the Jaisalmer desert, under some of the clearest skies in India.
Dune dinner with Manganiyar musicians
Photo: sushmita balasubramani · CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Manganiyar are hereditary musicians of the Thar who have sung for their patron families for generations, at births, weddings and festivals. Their music, with the kamaicha bowed lute, the dholak drum and the clacking khartal, is one of the great folk traditions of India, and some of its musicians now play on stages around the world.

We drive out in the late afternoon to a dune area away from the crowds at Sam, where hundreds of visitors gather each evening. You walk up a dune for sunset, or take a short camel ride if you wish. As the light goes, the camp team lights a fire, lays out rugs and low tables, and the musicians begin. Dinner is cooked on the spot.

From December to February the nights are cold, often 5–8 °C, and the stars brilliant. We bring blankets and warm drinks. The evening ends around 10 pm with the drive back to Suryagarh or your camp. Permissions for private set-ups in the desert change, so check current status before you travel.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Are the Sam sand dunes worth visiting

Sam has the highest and most accessible dunes near Jaisalmer, but at sunset it is crowded with camel rides, jeeps and stalls. For a calmer experience, we choose dune areas further away or near Khuri, or set up a private dinner on the land around Suryagarh.

Is a camel ride in Jaisalmer worth it

A short ride of 30–45 minutes at sunset is enjoyable for most people and children love it. Longer camel safaris are tiring for those not used to riding. We choose operators who treat their animals well and do not overload them.

How cold does it get in the Thar desert at night

From December to February, nights near Jaisalmer drop to about 5–8 °C, and occasionally lower. Days are warm at 22–25 °C. Bring a warm jacket, scarf and closed shoes for evening outings. October and March nights are milder. We bring blankets and warm drinks to every dune dinner. Pack a light layer even in October, as the desert cools quickly after sunset.

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