Kuldhara village and the Bada Bagh cenotaphs
Kuldhara, about 18 km west of Jaisalmer, was one of a group of villages settled by Paliwal Brahmins, farmers and traders who prospered in the desert for centuries. In the 19th century the villages were abandoned, and Kuldhara was never resettled. Local stories blame a cruel minister of Jaisalmer and a curse laid by the departing villagers; historians point to drought and heavy taxes.
The village remains as rows of roofless stone houses along straight lanes, with a temple at the centre and a few restored houses that show how families lived. In the late afternoon light it is quiet and photogenic. Nearby Khaba Fort, another abandoned Paliwal settlement, can be added for a longer outing.
On another afternoon, or on the way back, we stop at Bada Bagh, about 6 km north of the city, where the cenotaphs of the Jaisalmer rulers stand on a ridge above an old garden and dam. Wind turbines now line the horizon, but at sunset the domes still glow. Opening times change, so check current status before you travel.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Is Kuldhara really haunted
Kuldhara has a reputation as a haunted village, based on the legend that departing villagers cursed it. There is no evidence of anything unusual. It is a peaceful, well-preserved abandoned settlement, best visited in the late afternoon. The site is generally open in daylight hours only.
Why was Kuldhara abandoned
Local legend says the Paliwal Brahmins left overnight to escape a tyrannical minister. Historians suggest drought, the failing of water sources, and heavy taxation as more likely causes. Either way, the village was left in the 19th century and never resettled.
How far is Kuldhara from Jaisalmer
About 18 km west, 25–30 minutes by car. It is on the way to Suryagarh and the Sam dunes, so it fits easily into an afternoon before a dune dinner. The village is quiet and photogenic in the late afternoon light, and nearby Khaba Fort, another abandoned Paliwal settlement, can be added for a longer outing. The site is generally open in daylight hours only; check current status before you travel.
Also in Jaisalmer
More hours to plan around
