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Tambdi Surla, Goa's oldest temple

A visit to the small black basalt temple of Mahadev at Tambdi Surla, built in the Kadamba period in the 12th or 13th century and the finest surviving pre-Portuguese temple in Goa, set in forest at the foot of the Western Ghats.
Tambdi Surla, Goa's oldest temple
Photo: Mahabalaindia · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Almost all of Goa's older temples were destroyed in the wars and conversions of the 14th to 17th centuries. Tambdi Surla survived, probably because it stood deep in forest far from the coast. It was built in the Kadamba period, in the 12th or 13th century, of dark basalt brought from the Deccan plateau, and is dedicated to Shiva as Mahadev.

The temple is small, with a pillared hall, an antechamber and a sanctum with a linga, under a tiered tower that was never finished. Carvings on the pillars and walls include elephants, lotus motifs and figures of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva with their consorts. It faces east so that the first light enters the sanctum, and a stream runs past nearby.

Tambdi Surla is about 13 km from Mollem, at the end of a quiet road through forest and villages. We visit in the morning before Dudhsagar or in the early afternoon after the falls.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

How old is Tambdi Surla temple?

The Mahadev temple at Tambdi Surla dates from the Kadamba period, generally placed in the 12th or 13th century. It is the oldest and best-preserved surviving temple from before Portuguese rule in Goa, protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.

How far is Tambdi Surla from Panjim?

About 65 km, roughly 1 h 45 min by car via Ponda and Mollem. It is about 13 km from Mollem, which makes it easy to combine with Dudhsagar Falls and a spice farm lunch near Ponda in one day.

Is Tambdi Surla an active temple?

Yes, worship continues at the temple, and it is busy during Mahashivratri. Visitors of all faiths are welcome. Remove shoes before entering, dress modestly and avoid photography inside the sanctum.

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