Pelling
Monastery ridge with the closest view of Kanchenjunga
Pelling sits on a ridge in West Sikkim facing the Kanchenjunga massif across a deep valley. On a clear October morning, the third-highest mountain in the world and its neighbouring peaks seem close enough to touch, lit pink and then gold as the sun comes up. That view is the main reason to come, and it is worth planning a stay around it.
The ridge has also been at the centre of Sikkim's history. Just below Pelling stands Pemayangtse, one of the most important monasteries of the Nyingma school, founded in 1705. A short walk through forest leads to the ruins of Rabdentse, the kingdom's second capital from 1670 until 1814. Further afield, Yuksom was the first capital, where the first Chogyal was crowned in 1642, and Khecheopalri is a lake held sacred by Buddhists and Hindus alike.
Pelling town has grown quickly, with many concrete hotels, but the best place to stay, the Elgin Mount Pandim, sits apart near the monastery, with a lawn that looks straight at the mountains. Two nights give one good chance of a clear dawn; three give two, and allow a day in Yuksom.
Highlights
What Pelling does best
From the Elgin Mount Pandim's lawn and viewpoints along the ridge, the Kanchenjunga range spans the northern horizon. Between October and December, clear dawns are common, and the peaks light up pink, then gold, within minutes of sunrise.
Founded in 1705, Pemayangtse is one of Sikkim's oldest and most important Nyingma monasteries. Its upper floor holds a remarkable carved and painted wooden model of the celestial palace of Guru Rinpoche, built by a single lama over several years.
A forest path of about 20 minutes leads to the ruins of Rabdentse, capital of Sikkim from 1670 until 1814, later destroyed by invading Gurkha forces. Stone walls, chortens and the remains of the royal palace stand on a ridge with views across to Kanchenjunga.
About 30 km from Pelling, Khecheopalri is a small lake in a forest bowl, sacred to Buddhists and Hindus. It is said that birds keep its surface free of leaves. A short walk along prayer flags leads to a jetty where pilgrims make offerings.
Yuksom is where the first Chogyal of Sikkim was crowned in 1642, on a stone throne at Norbugang that still stands. Nearby, Dubdi Monastery, founded in 1701, is one of the oldest in the state, reached by a forest walk.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Pelling
Bagdogra (IXB) is the nearest major airport, about 135 km and 5 to 5.5 hours by road via Jorethang or Melli. Most guests arrive from Gangtok instead. Check current status before you travel.
New Jalpaiguri (NJP), near Siliguri, is the nearest major station, about 5 hours away by road. There is no railway in Sikkim yet.
From Gangtok, the road runs via Singtam and Ravangla or via Rabongla's ridge to Geyzing and Pelling, about 125 km and 5 hours. From Darjeeling it is about 4 hours. Roads are narrow and winding, and landslides are common in the monsoon.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
The Elgin Mount Pandim is the place to stay: a heritage hotel near Pemayangtse Monastery, slightly apart from the town, with mountain-facing rooms and a lawn for sunrise. Pelling town has many newer hotels, varying widely in quality, clustered along the ridge with good views but less charm. We book the Elgin first, and confirm mountain-facing rooms, as the view is the purpose of the stay.
A heritage hotel on the ridge below Pemayangtse Monastery near Pelling, run by Elgin Hotels, with a lawn and rooms that face the Kanchenjunga range. It …
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Five things to know
- Set an alarm for 5 am from October to December; the mountain is clearest in the first hour after dawn.
- Stay at least two nights to allow for a cloudy morning.
- Carry warm layers; dawn on the ridge is cold even in spring.
- Pemayangtse charges a small entry fee and asks visitors to dress modestly.
- Foreigners need the Sikkim Restricted Area Permit, which covers Pelling; check current status before you travel.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Pelling
Is Pelling worth visiting?
Yes, for the Kanchenjunga view, Pemayangtse Monastery, the Rabdentse ruins, Khecheopalri Lake and Yuksom. Stay at the Elgin Mount Pandim, plan dawn viewing and give it at least two nights. The town itself is less attractive than its surroundings.
How far is Pelling from Gangtok?
About 125 km, or 5 hours by road via Singtam and Ravangla. The road is winding but scenic, and we break the drive at Ravangla's Buddha Park or a tea garden. Landslides can slow it in the monsoon.
What is the best time to visit Pelling?
October to December for clear mountain views, and March to May for rhododendrons and mild weather. January and February are cold but often clear. June to September is the monsoon, when cloud hides the mountains and roads are affected by landslides.
How many days should I stay in Pelling?
Two or three nights. Two nights give a good chance of one clear dawn and time for Pemayangtse and Rabdentse; three nights add Khecheopalri and Yuksom and a second chance at the view.
Where should I stay in Pelling?
The Elgin Mount Pandim, a heritage hotel near Pemayangtse Monastery with mountain-facing rooms and a lawn for sunrise. Pelling town has many newer hotels with views but less character. We book the Elgin first and confirm mountain-facing rooms.
Do I need a permit for Pelling?
Indian citizens do not need a permit for Pelling. Foreign nationals need the Sikkim Restricted Area Permit, which covers Pelling, Yuksom and much of west Sikkim. Treks beyond Yuksom need extra permits. Check current status before you travel.
How cold is Pelling?
Pelling is cool all year. Winter nights from December to February fall close to freezing, with days around 10 to 15 °C. Spring and autumn are mild. Dawn on the ridge is always cold, so bring warm layers for sunrise.
Can I trek from Pelling?
Yuksom, about 1.5 hours from Pelling, is the starting point for treks to Dzongri and Goecha La, which need permits and several days. From Pelling, shorter walks reach Rabdentse, Sangachoeling monastery and forest trails along the ridge.
What is the Pelling skywalk?
It is a glass-floored walkway near a large statue of Chenrezig, the Buddha of compassion, at Sangachoeling, a short drive from Pelling. It offers views over the valleys. It is a modern attraction, popular with domestic visitors, and best seen early in the day.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Pelling
Nearby
Pair it with
Sikkim's ridge-top capital, facing the Kanchenjunga range
A high Sikkim valley of rhododendrons near the Tibetan frontier
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin