Agra Fort and the Baby Taj
Agra Fort is a walled city in red sandstone, about 2.5 km around. Akbar began rebuilding it in 1565 and three generations of emperors added to it. We enter through the Amar Singh Gate, the only one open to visitors, and walk up to the Jahangiri Mahal, a palace that mixes Mughal and Rajput forms, before reaching the white marble buildings of Shah Jahan.
The Diwan-i-Aam, the hall of public audience, still has its marble throne alcove. Beyond it, the Musamman Burj is an octagonal tower with inlaid marble walls that looks straight down the river to the Taj. Tradition holds that Shah Jahan spent his last years here after his son Aurangzeb confined him. Your guide explains how much of that story is recorded and how much is legend.
We then cross the Yamuna to Itmad-ud-Daulah, built by Empress Nur Jahan for her father between 1622 and 1628. It is small and intimate in scale, and its marble walls are covered in inlaid stone, cypress trees, wine cups and flower vases. It is usually quiet, with space to look closely at the inlay and the river views through the screens.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
How long do I need at Agra Fort?
Allow two to two and a half hours with a guide. That covers the Amar Singh Gate, Jahangiri Mahal, the halls of public and private audience, the Musamman Burj and the Khas Mahal. Much of the fort is still used by the Indian Army and closed to visitors, so the open area is walkable in that time.
Is Itmad-ud-Daulah worth visiting if I have seen the Taj Mahal?
Yes. It is smaller and quieter, and you can see the stone inlay at arm's length, which is harder at the Taj. Built a decade before the Taj was begun, it shows the move from red sandstone to white marble in Mughal tombs. A visit takes about 45 minutes and pairs naturally with Mehtab Bagh at sunset.
Is Agra Fort open on Fridays?
Yes. Unlike the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Itmad-ud-Daulah are open every day from sunrise to sunset. That makes them a good choice for a Friday in Agra, together with Mehtab Bagh for sunset views of the Taj from across the river. Check current status before you travel, as ASI timings can change.
Also in Agra
More hours to plan around
