Sunset over the Taj from Mehtab Bagh
Mehtab Bagh, the moonlight garden, is a square Mughal garden on the north bank of the Yamuna, aligned exactly with the Taj Mahal. Archaeologists excavated an octagonal pool here that would have reflected the mausoleum. The garden has been replanted and is managed by the Archaeological Survey of India, with a modest entry ticket.
We arrive about an hour before sunset. From the river wall you see the whole Taj, its platform, minarets and the red sandstone mosque and guest hall on either side, with the river in front. As the sun drops behind you, the marble turns warm yellow and then pale pink. Herons and egrets work the shallows, and in winter you may see ruddy shelduck.
Your guide uses the time to tell the story of the river front, the gardens that once lined it and the legend of a second, black Taj on this bank, which most historians doubt. We often bring a flask of tea and something light from the hotel kitchen and leave as the light goes, about 20 minutes back to Taj Ganj.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Can I see the Taj Mahal on a Friday?
You cannot go inside the Taj Mahal on Fridays, but you can see it from Mehtab Bagh across the Yamuna, from Agra Fort and from the rooftops of some hotels. Mehtab Bagh at sunset is the best of these. The garden is open daily from sunrise to sunset, with an ASI entry ticket; check current status before you travel.
Is Mehtab Bagh better at sunrise or sunset?
Sunset is better. The garden faces the Taj from the north, so in the evening the sun lights the marble from the west side and the colours deepen. At sunrise the Taj is partly back-lit from here. Morning fog in winter also tends to lie over the river, while late afternoon is usually clear from October to March.
How far is Mehtab Bagh from the Taj Mahal hotels?
Although it sits directly across the river, there is no bridge nearby, so the drive from Taj Ganj takes about 20 to 25 minutes via the Yamuna bridge near Itmad-ud-Daulah. Many guests combine it with Itmad-ud-Daulah, which lies on the same side of the river, for a late-afternoon outing.
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