Over Pensi La to the Drang Drung glacier

From Rangdum, the road climbs gently across a wide valley to Pensi La at about 4,400 m. Near the top are small glacial lakes, where we stop for photographs and tea. The pass marks the watershed between the Suru and the Stod valleys, and the boundary into Zanskar. Wild flowers bloom here in July. The views open out in every direction, with snow peaks rising above the pass on both sides.

Just beyond the pass, the Drang Drung glacier comes into view, a long river of ice curving down from the peaks to the valley floor. It is one of the largest glaciers in Ladakh outside the Karakoram, and the road follows it for some distance. On a clear morning the ice is bright white under a deep blue sky. Photographers love it. Stop at the viewpoints along the road. Stop often.

The road then descends into the Stod valley past small villages to Padum, about 100 km from Rangdum, taking four to five hours with stops. The road is partly unpaved and slow, but the scenery makes the hours pass easily. Carry a picnic, as there are few places to eat. Arrive in Padum by mid-afternoon to rest. Carry warm layers for the pass. Dinner and rest follow at your hotel in Padum.