To Phugtal, the cave monastery

Phugtal lies in the Lungnak valley, south-east of Padum. The road follows the river past villages and gorges to a point where the walk begins. In recent years the road has been extended closer to the monastery, shortening the walk, but conditions change from year to year. Check current status before you travel. Start early to allow time. The valley is narrow, with gorges and small villages. The scenery is wild.

The final approach repays every step: a footpath along the valley side, a bridge across the Tsarap, and then the first view of the monastery, its buildings stacked against the cliff and spilling from the mouth of a huge cave. Phugtal was founded in the early 15th century and is home to a Gelugpa community. A small donation is appreciated. Allow time to sit in the cave. Monks welcome respectful visitors.

Inside the cave is a small spring and an old chapel with murals. Monks may offer tea. The walk back to the car takes as long as the walk in, and the drive to Padum is several hours, so this is a long day. Pack a picnic, warm layers and sun protection. Good shoes and water are essential. Return to Padum by evening for a hot dinner. Rest the next morning.