Key takeaways
- Pack thin layers for your coldest stop, not for the average day.
- Ladakh, Mustang and the Khumbu need down, a windproof shell and SPF 50 even in summer.
- A long scarf, knee-length cover and socks solve almost every temple dress rule.
- Leave drones, food for the Taj Mahal and formal wear at home.
The rule: pack for your hardest stop
Most of our journeys cross more than one climate. A Rajasthan and Kerala trip in January can run from about 5 °C at dawn in the desert to 32 °C on the backwaters, and a Ladakh journey in July goes from the high 20s in Leh at noon to near freezing at Pangong at night. So we pack for the hardest stop, in thin layers that combine, rather than for the average. A private car means luggage is less of a burden than on a group tour, but domestic flights limit checked bags, often to 15 kg in economy, and the small aircraft into the Everest region and Mustang allow less still; check current status before you travel.
Laundry is quick at almost every hotel we use and is often returned the same day, so a week of clothes is enough for a fortnight. Soft bags are easier than hard cases on mountain flights, in jeeps and on houseboats.
By land and season
This is a simpler version of the note we send with every itinerary. Temperatures are typical daytime ranges; nights and early mornings are colder, especially in the desert and the mountains, and every year has its exceptions.
If your journey crosses seasons, for example Ladakh in late September followed by Rajasthan in October, the table still works: pack for both rows and wear the heaviest layers on the plane.
| Land | Season | Weather | Pack |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rajasthan | Oct – Mar | Days 20–30 °C; desert nights near 5 °C in Dec – Jan | Light layers, warm jacket, scarf |
| Rajasthan | Apr – Jun | 35–45 °C and dry | Loose cotton, hat, sunglasses |
| UP & Bihar | Dec – Jan | Fog, mornings 5–10 °C | Warm jacket, thermal layer for dawn boats |
| Ladakh | Jun – Sep | Leh days 20–28 °C; high lakes near freezing at night | Down jacket, fleece, SPF 50, lip balm |
| Ladakh | Jan – Feb | Leh well below −10 °C at night | Expedition down, thermals, insulated boots |
| Kerala | Oct – Mar | 26–33 °C, humid | Linen and cotton, a cardigan for Munnar |
| Kerala and Goa | Jun – Sep | Monsoon, warm and wet | Rain shell, quick-dry clothes, sandals |
| Goa | Nov – Mar | 24–33 °C, dry | Swimwear, cover-ups, light evening wear |
| North East | Oct – Apr | Hills 8–22 °C, Tawang colder | Fleece, light down, walking shoes |
| Nepal | Oct – Nov, Mar – Apr | Kathmandu 10–25 °C, mountains colder | Layers, fleece, light down for dawns |
Altitude: Ladakh, Mustang and the Khumbu
Leh sits at about 3,500 m, Pangong Tso at about 4,250 m, and the road passes to Nubra and Pangong cross 5,300 m. At that height the air is thin, dry and cold out of the sun, while the sun itself burns quickly. Pack for both: a light down jacket that folds into its own bag, a fleece, a windproof shell, a warm hat and gloves even in August, and sunglasses with full UV protection. Add SPF 50 sunscreen, a lip balm with sun protection and a refillable bottle, because you will need to drink 3 to 4 litres a day.
Bring personal medicines in your hand luggage, and talk to your doctor before you travel about altitude and any heart or lung condition; we are not doctors and do not prescribe. The first 48 hours in Leh should be spent resting, and our itineraries are built that way. The same list works for Lo Manthang in Mustang, at about 3,800 m, and for Namche Bazaar in the Everest region, at about 3,440 m, where nights are cold in every season.
- Light down jacket and a fleece
- Windproof, waterproof shell
- Warm hat, gloves and a neck gaiter
- Sunglasses with full UV protection
- SPF 50 sunscreen and lip balm
- A refillable bottle for 3 to 4 litres a day
Every journey we plan comes with a packing note for your exact dates and stops. Tell us where and when, and we will start there.
Temple, monastery and mosque dress
Religious sites across our seven lands ask for the same basics: shoulders and knees covered, shoes off before the inner areas, and quiet. A long, light scarf is the most useful thing in the bag. It covers shoulders in a Rajasthan temple and a head in a Lucknow mosque, and keeps the sun off your neck in Ladakh. Socks are worth carrying too, because temple courtyards can be hot stone by noon and shoes are almost always left at the gate.
Some places have stricter rules. Many Kerala temples admit only Hindus to the inner shrine, and some ask men to remove their shirts and wear a mundu. At Kashi Vishwanath in Varanasi, phones and bags are not allowed inside, and lockers are provided. In Ladakh's monasteries, remove hats in prayer halls and walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels. Leather belts and bags are not allowed in some Jain temples, including Ranakpur. Rules change, so check current status before you travel. At Bodh Gaya and Lumbini the same modest dress applies, and shoes come off before the inner temple areas.
- A long scarf or shawl
- Trousers or a long skirt that covers the knees
- Shirts with sleeves
- Socks for hot floors
- Slip-on shoes that are easy to remove
Safaris, monsoon and the water
Safaris start early, and open vehicles are cold at dawn from November to February, in Ranthambore, Kaziranga and Chitwan alike. Pack a warm layer, a hat and gloves for the first hour, then strip down as the sun climbs. Choose khaki, olive and brown over white or bright colours, and leave scented sprays behind. Binoculars matter more than a long lens for most people, and an 8x42 pair is a good all-round size.
For the monsoon in Kerala, Goa and the North East, a light rain shell is more useful than an umbrella on a walk, and sandals with grip are better than trainers that never dry. In Meghalaya, walking shoes with a deep tread are essential for the root bridge steps. On houseboats and beaches, pack a hat, a long-sleeved swim top and reef-safe sunscreen; this close to the equator the sun is strong in every month.
What we tell guests to leave at home
Heavy guidebooks, a second pair of smart shoes and more than one formal outfit. Palace hotels in Rajasthan are smart in the evenings but rarely formal, and a jacket without a tie is enough for dinner at Rambagh Palace or Umaid Bhawan. Drones need registration and permissions in India and Nepal, and are prohibited at the Taj Mahal and in many border and airport zones, including much of Ladakh; leave them at home unless we have arranged permission in advance. Check current status before you travel.
Do not take food to the Taj Mahal: it is not allowed inside, along with tripods and large bags. Large amounts of cash are unnecessary in cities, where cards work at hotels and good shops, but carry small notes for village fees, tips and tea stalls in the hills, Ladakh and Nepal. Nepal uses its own rupee, and the rules on carrying Indian notes above ₹100 have changed in recent years, so check current status before you travel. Valuable jewellery is best left at home; hotel safes are good, but crowded ghats and bazaars are not the place for it.
A short list for every trip
Whatever the land and season, these go in every bag we pack for ourselves.
Our seven-night Leh, Nubra and Pangong journey, from ₹2,60,000 per person, comes with a full packing note, as does every itinerary we send. If you are crossing climates, for example Ladakh and Kerala in one trip, tell us and we will suggest how to split your luggage so the down jacket does not have to come to the beach.
- Passport, visa printout and spare passport photographs for permits
- Personal medicines with prescriptions, in hand luggage
- A long scarf and a pair of socks for temples
- A light down jacket that packs small
- Sunglasses, a hat, SPF 50 and lip balm
- Walking shoes with grip, and slip-on shoes
- A universal adaptor: India uses Type C, D and M sockets
- A refillable water bottle
Journeys from this article
Start from a route
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
What should I wear to temples in India?
Cover shoulders and knees, and be ready to take off your shoes. Loose trousers or a long skirt, a shirt with sleeves and a long scarf work almost everywhere, from Rajasthan's temples to Ladakh's monasteries and Lucknow's mosques. Carry socks, because courtyards can be hot by noon. Some Kerala temples admit only Hindus to the inner shrine and ask men to wear a mundu.
How cold does Rajasthan get in winter?
Days from November to February are usually 20 to 28 °C and pleasant, but nights in the desert towns can fall to about 5 °C in December and January, and early safaris in open jeeps feel colder still. Pack a warm jacket, a light scarf and a layer you can add at dawn and remove by mid-morning. Palace rooms are heated, but courtyards and rooftop dinners are not.
What do I need for the altitude in Ladakh?
Layers and sun protection. Leh is at about 3,500 m and the passes cross 5,300 m, so pack a light down jacket, fleece, windproof shell, warm hat and gloves even in summer, plus SPF 50, lip balm and good sunglasses. Drink 3 to 4 litres a day, rest for the first 48 hours, and speak to your doctor about altitude before you travel.
What should I pack for Kerala in the monsoon?
Light, quick-dry clothes, a rain shell, sandals with a good grip and a small dry bag for your phone. Rain in Kerala from June to September comes in heavy bursts with dry spells between, and temperatures stay warm. In Munnar, add a light jumper for the evenings. An umbrella is useful in towns but awkward on estate walks and houseboat decks.
Can I wear shorts in India and Nepal?
On Goa's beaches, in resort grounds and on most treks, yes. In old cities such as Varanasi, Lucknow, Jaipur and Kathmandu, knee-length or longer is more respectful and draws less attention, and it is required at religious sites. Light linen trousers or a long skirt are just as cool. In Ladakh, the sun and wind make long trousers more comfortable anyway.
